MASGOUF - Iraqi Barbequed Fish

Summers were always unbearably hot in Baghdad. Our skin tingled and itched, even indoors. To escape the heat at night, all of us slept on the roof of our house. Water to slake our thirst was furnished in a long-necked, fat-bellied, unglazed earthenware pot, which kept the water amazingly cool and which was accompanied by five earthenware goblets. I still remember the refreshing smell of the damp earthenware and the rough feel of the unglazed cup against my lips as I drank.

 

During these summer months, fishermen would bring in their catch every night (usually shabbut or biz, oily river fish, similar to carp) and would barbecue them over a brushwood fire on the banks of the river. These fires could be seen dotted all along the shores of the river, delineating its meandering route and illuminating the night with a soft glow.

 

The fishermen butterflied the fish, then brushed them with oil and seasoned them with herbs and spices. Then, each fish was impaled on wooden stakes, planted in the ground and grilled at an angle over the open fire. This way of cooking the fish is Iraq’s iconic dish called samak masgouf, or simply masgouf. The fish was then sold to the many passers-by.

 

And whilst we lay in bed, gazing at the stars, we would slowly drift into the arms of Morpheus, lulled by the smoky aromas from the masgouf rising up to our roof from the river below.

 

 

Masgouf

Aromatic Barbecued Fish 

 

Masgouf used to be one of the popular dishes for parties and celebrations. Alas, it is very difficult to reproduce the taste of masgouf without the aromatic brushwood fire. A way round it is to barbecue an oily fish such as carp, trout or sea bream (ideally in a clamshell grill with a handle and a locking snare), seasoned beforehand with herbs and a spicy marinade. Pan-frying, grilling or baking are acceptable alternatives. You can also use haddock fillets.

 

The fish must be at room temperature, and defrosted if frozen.

 

Serves 4

 

4 sea bream fillets (skin-on), or 2 whole sea bream, gutted and butterflied (ask your fishmonger to do this)

2 shallots, thinly sliced

2 tomatoes, sliced in rounds

a handful of fresh parsley, roughly chopped, to garnish

 

For the marinade

1 tablespoon mild curry powder

½ teaspoon ground dried lime (optional)

½ teaspoon finely minced (peeled) fresh root ginger

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon cayenne pepper or 1 teaspoon Aleppo pepper

4 plump garlic cloves, crushed or very finely chopped

1 tablespoon salt

juice of ½ lemon

1 tablespoon tomato purée

1 tablespoon capers in brine, drained and roughly chopped

6–7 tablespoons olive oil

 

·            Preheat the oven to 200°C/180°C Fan/400°F/Gas Mark 6, or prepare your barbecue.

·            Put all the marinade ingredients in a jar and shake to blend.

·            Pat the fish fillets or butterflied fish dry with kitchen paper, then place them in a roasting tray or large ovenproof dish (do not overlap them) and rub the marinade all over, massaging gently. I usually leave the fish to marinate for about 15–30 minutes.

·            Place the shallots and tomatoes around the fish.

·            Bake for about 15 minutes (depending on the thickness of your fish) until the fish is cooked.

·            Turn off the oven, leaving the roasting tray/dish to rest in the oven for about 5 minutes.

·            Remove from the oven and baste the fish with the liquid/sauce remaining in the roasting tray/dish, then garnish with the parsley.

·            Leave to rest for another 10 minutes or so before serving with rice or boiled or mashed potatoes.

 

Note: If you wish to barbecue the fish, marinate as above, keeping some of the marinade for basting. Place the fish in a clamshell grill or straight onto an oiled grill and baste every so often during cooking.